From Tradition to Revival: A Timeline of the Mamianqun
Table of content
Preface
The earliest recorded design of the mamianqun (Chinese: 马面裙, pinyin: mǎmiànqún) also known as horse-face skirt, dates back to the period between the Liao Dynasty (大遼, 916-1125) and the Song Dynasty (宋, 960-1279), and continued to evolve through the Yuan Dynasty (元, 1271–1368), before becoming more refined and popular during the Ming (明, 1368–1644) and Qing (清, 1644–1911) Dynasties. The distinctiveness of each mamianqun throughout these eras lies in the variations in design and structure. For example, in the Ming and Qing dynasties, the mamianqun were often made from silk damask and featured colours like red, black, and blue. The panels were often decorated with embroidery.
You might wonder, "Why is it called the horse face skirt?" Despite the name, it has no actual connection to horses. According to a Ming Dynasty scholar, the rectangular sections of the skirt resemble military defensive structures that jut out from city walls at irregular intervals. When the skirt is laid flat, it features three such structures, referred to as 码面 (mamian). The front and back panels resemble the trapezoidal shape of raised military towers, while the pleats on the sides evoke the defensive walls that link these towers, reinforcing this architectural association
Below we would contrast and explore the mamianqun from each dynasty. Please also note
Song Dynasty 宋 (960-1279)
The origins of the mamianqun were first documented during the Song Dynasty, where it was originally called the "whirling skirt" or "spinning skirt" (旋裙). This skirt was characterised by two pieces of fabric joined at the waistband, overlapping at the front and back to create a flat panel. Designed for practicality, this structure allowed women to comfortably mount and dismount horses, earning it the name "split skirt." Additionally, the overlapping fabric skillfuly concealed undergarments from view. Early versions of the mamianqun were often simple, made with softer fabrics and occasionally adorned with embroidered decorations.
Yuan Dynasty (Mongols) 元 (1271–1368)
Early forms of the mamianqun were found in tombs, indicating that the basic structure of the skirt had been established by this period.
Ming Dynasty (Han) 明 (1368–1644)
During the Ming Dynasty, the mamianqun underwent significant development and became widely popular during this period. Its design featured four overlapping panels at the front and back, with pleats along the sides. These skirts were often adorned with embroidered hems, showcasing the period's diverse and richly styled clothing. Initially worn by high nobility, the mamian skirt became a common wardrobe item during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The design evolved to include pleats on both fabric sections, improving leg mobility and allowing for a more customisable fit to the wearer’s body.
Qing Dynasty (Manchus) 清 (1644–1911)
During the Qing dynasty, the mamianqun were decorated with auspicious ornaments and patterns which reflected the appropriate situational context and the social occasions in which the wearer partook. In addition, the colours and ornaments used in the mamianqun also had to be appropriate for the occasion. The mamianqun was also known as "hundred-pleats skirt", "hundred-fold skirt", "fish-scale skirt" during this period.
Modern Day Revival - Integrating Tradition Into Daily Life
The mamianqun has been a quintessential style for women over the centuries and continues to be so. With gained popularity in this modern day era, this classic garment has been infused with modern elements while preserving its timeless elegance. Contemporary designers now showcase innovative designs that celebrate the mamianqun's heritage and tradition while pushing the boundaries of creativity and style.
