The earliest recorded design of the mamianqun (Chinese: 马面裙, pinyin: mǎmiànqún, lit: "horse face skirt") dates back to the period between the Liao Dynasty (大遼, 916-1125) and the Song Dynasty (宋, 960-1279), and continued to evolve through the Yuan Dynasty (元, 1271–1368), before becoming more refined and popular during the Ming (明, 1368–1644) and Qing (清, 1644–1911) Dynasties. The distinctiveness of each mamianqun throughout these eras lies in the variations in design and structure.
You might wonder, "Why is it called the horse face skirt?" Despite the name, it has no actual connection to horses. According to a Ming Dynasty scholar, the rectangular sections of the skirt resemble military defensive structures that jut out from city walls at irregular intervals. When the skirt is laid flat, it features three such structures, referred to as 码面 (mamian). The front and back panels resemble the trapezoidal shape of raised military towers, while the pleats on the sides evoke the defensive walls that link these towers, reinforcing this architectural association.
Below we would contrast and explore the mamian skirt from each dynasty.
Song Dynasty 宋 (960-1279):
The origins of the mamianqun were first documented during the Song Dynasty (as shown in the picture above), where it was originally called the "whirling skirt" or "spinning skirt" (旋裙). This skirt was characterised by two pieces of fabric joined at the waistband, overlapping at the front and back to create a flat panel. Designed for practicality, this structure allowed women to comfortably mount and dismount horses, earning it the name "split skirt." Additionally, the overlapping fabric skillfully concealed undergarments from view. Early versions of the mamianqun were often simple, made with softer fabrics and occasionally adorned with embroidered decorations.
Yuan Dynasty (Mongols) 元 (1271–1368):
Early forms of the mamianqun were found in tombs, indicating that the basic structure of the skirt had been established by this period.
Ming Dynasty 明 (1368–1644):
During the Ming Dynasty, the mamianqun (horse-face skirt) underwent significant development and became widely popular. Its design featured four overlapping panels at the front and back, with pleats along the sides. These skirts were often adorned with embroidered hems, showcasing the period's diverse and richly styled clothing. Initially worn by high nobility, the mamian skirt became a common wardrobe item during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The design evolved to include pleats on both fabric sections, improving leg mobility and allowing for a more customisable fit to the wearer’s body.
Qing Dynasty (Manchus) 清 (1644–1911):
The Qing Dynasty saw further evolution of the mamianqun, with side pleats becoming increasingly intricate—sometimes numbering up to a hundred pleats, which led to names like "hundred-pleats skirt", "hundred-fold skirt", or "fish-scale skirt". Qing Dynasty mamianqun were more luxurious and ornate, reflecting the unique fashion elements of the era. Embellishments such as embroidery and piping became more elaborate, aligning with the opulent tastes of the Qing period.
Modern Day Revival - Integrating Tradition Into Daily Life:
The mamianqun has been a quintessential style for women over the centuries and continues to be so. With gained popularity in this modern day era, this classic garment has been infused with modern elements while preserving its timeless elegance. Contemporary designers now showcase innovative designs that celebrate the mamianqun's heritage and tradition while pushing the boundaries of creativity and style.
